Madame Grès, born Germaine Émilie Krebs in 1903, is celebrated as one of the most influential figures in haute couture. Known for her meticulous draping techniques and a profound respect for the female form, she transformed the fashion industry with her elegantly sculpted Grecian gowns. Grès is often referred to as the "Sphinx of Fashion" for her secretive nature and intense focus on her craft. Grès’s journey into fashion began after she shifted her aspirations from sculpture to couture, applying her sculptor's eye to fabric. Her early work at the fashion house Maison Premet honed her skills, and in 1932, she opened her first couture house, La Maison Alix. Designing under the name "Alix," she quickly gained recognition for her classical drapery and innovative use of live mannequins, creating garments directly on the models. Her designs during this period were heavily influenced by Greco-Roman art, characterized by their simple lines and an emphasis on the natural beauty of the female body. The 1940s marked a significant period in her career when she adopted the name "Madame Grès" after marrying Russian painter Serge Czerefkov. During World War II, despite pressure from the occupying German forces to produce utilitarian clothing, Grès defiantly continued creating the refined, patriotic designs that made her famous. Her couture house was eventually closed by the Germans, but she returned after the liberation of Paris to continue her work, solidifying her reputation as the "master of the wrapped and draped dress." Madame Grès’s post-war years saw the creation of her most iconic designs, particularly her floor-length draped gowns, which would take hundreds of hours to complete, each pleat meticulously crafted by hand. Throughout the 1950s, she experimented with simpler cuts and ethnic inspirations, expanding her repertoire while staying true to her minimalist aesthetic. In addition to her couture work, Grès launched the successful fragrance "Cabochard" in 1959, which became a signature scent in the fashion world. However, her later years were marked by personal and financial difficulties. After retiring in the late 1980s, she lived in increasing seclusion, her once-thriving fashion house facing bankruptcy and eventual liquidation. Despite the challenges she faced, Madame Grès’s influence on the fashion industry remains profound. Her innovative techniques and designs have inspired countless designers and continue to be revered in the world of haute couture. Grès passed away in 1993, her death kept private for a year by her daughter, Anne. Though her life ended in relative obscurity, her legacy endures through the timeless elegance of her designs, which continue to captivate and inspire.

click here