Jeanne Paquin (1869–1936) was a French fashion designer known for her modern and innovative designs. She was one of the first major female couturiers and played a significant role in shaping the modern fashion business. Born Jeanne Marie Charlotte Beckers in 1869, Jeanne was one of five children. Her father was a physician, and she was sent out to work as a young teenager. She trained as a dressmaker at the Paris couture house Rouff, quickly rising through the ranks to become première, in charge of the atelier. In 1891, Jeanne married Isidore René Jacob, also known as Paquin, who owned Paquin Lalanne et cie, a couture house that had grown out of a menswear shop. Together, they renamed the company Paquin and focused on building the business. Jeanne and Isidore Paquin opened their Maison de Couture at 3 Rue de la Paix in Paris in 1891, next to the celebrated House of Worth. Jeanne handled the design while Isidore managed the business. Initially favoring pastels, Jeanne eventually moved to stronger colors like black and her signature red. She made black fashionable by blending it with vividly colorful linings and embroidered trim. Jeanne Paquin was a marketing innovator, sending models dressed in her designs to public events such as operas and horse races for publicity. She frequently collaborated with illustrators and architects like Léon Bakst, George Barbier, Robert Mallet-Stevens, and Louis Süe. She also worked with theaters, an unusual practice at the time. In 1896, the House of Paquin opened a London branch, and the business became a limited company. This expansion continued with shops in Buenos Aires and Madrid. A young Madeleine Vionnet, who would later become a celebrated designer, worked at the London branch. Jeanne played a crucial role in organizing the Universal Exhibition in 1900 and was elected president of the Fashion Section. Her designs were prominently featured, and she created a mannequin of herself for display. Isidore Paquin died in 1907, leaving Jeanne a widow at 38. She continued to dress mostly in black and white after his death. In 1912, Jeanne and her half-brother opened a furrier, Paquin-Joire, on Fifth Avenue in New York City. The same year, she signed an exclusive illustration contract with La Gazette du Bon Ton, alongside other leading Paris designers like Louise Chéruit and Paul Poiret. In 1913, Jeanne became the first woman designer to receive France's prestigious Legion d’Honneur in recognition of her economic contributions to the country. She toured the United States, showcasing the latest designs from the House of Paquin. During World War I, Jeanne served as president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, becoming the first woman to hold this position. At its height, the House of Paquin employed up to 2,000 people and dressed royalty and courtesans alike. The company was so well-known that it was mentioned by Edith Wharton in her novel The House of Mirth. Jeanne Paquin retired in 1920, passing responsibility to her assistant Madeleine Wallis, who remained house designer until 1936. However, the House of Paquin struggled to compete with new designers like Christian Dior, and the Paris house closed on July 1, 1956. Jeanne Paquin's contributions to fashion were significant, and she remains a key figure in the history of couture. Her innovative marketing strategies and collaborations with artists and architects set her apart as a true pioneer in the fashion industry.

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