1866 - 1955
By: Kam
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Louise Chéruit, also known as Madeleine Chéruit, was a prominent French fashion designer. She was among the foremost couturiers of her generation and one of the first women to lead a major French fashion house. Her salon, Chéruit, operated at Place Vendôme in Paris from 1906 to 1935. Born on June 9, 1866, Chéruit received her early professional training in dressmaking during the late 1880s at Raudnitz & Cie, a prominent Parisian salon known for its youthful and simple yet elegant ensembles. Chéruit's mother was a seamstress, which influenced her early interest in fashion. Her talent, along with that of her sister, Marie Huet, quickly became evident, and they both ascended to leading positions within the firm. In 1895, Chéruit married Prosper Chéruit, who supported her creative talents and contributed to some business aspects of her early career. By 1900, her name, along with her sister's, was prominently featured on the labels of Raudnitz & Cie. In 1906, she took full control of the fashion house, renaming it Chéruit. Under her leadership, Chéruit became one of the most celebrated designers in Paris. Her designs were known for their feminine elegance, incorporating soft fabrics, pastel colors, and intricate embroideries. She introduced innovative styles like the pannier gown, which featured a full skirt at the hips tapering to an ankle-length hem, reminiscent of 18th-century French court fashion. Chéruit's salon at Place Vendôme, housed in the distinguished hôtel de Fontpertuis, became a hub for the fashion elite. By 1910, her collections were closely followed by the press, her image was drawn by leading artists, and her name was mentioned by the ubiquitous Marcel Proust in his "Remembrance of Things Past." In 1912, Chéruit collaborated with Lucien Vogel to produce the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton. Furthermore, her work was often illustrated by leading Art Deco artists, particularly Pierre Brissaud. During World War I, a scandal involving Chéruit's lover, an Austrian nobleman and military officer accused of espionage, forced her into seclusion. Despite rumors of her involvement in espionage, Chéruit maintained influence over her fashion house from behind the scenes. In 1915, the house of Chéruit was acquired by its directors, Mesdames Wormser and Boulanger, who preserved its original style while bringing new originality to it. Chéruit's fashion house continued to be known for chic cinema wraps, furs, lingerie, wedding trousseaus, and children's clothing. Her designs were worn by silent film stars like Jeanne Eagels and featured in Edward Steichen's iconic fashion photography. Chéruit retired in 1923, but her fashion house remained influential, and continued to produce beautiful designs, including flapper styles of the Jazz Age, until Elsa Schiaparelli took over in 1935. Chéruit passed away in 1955, but her impact on fashion is still recognized today, with her designs featured in major museums like the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Her fashion house was revived in 2008 at its original location in Paris, continuing her legacy.
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